By Timothy Hagy
28 - Trenches, boots, distressed fabrics, quilted sweaters and exaggerated
hip pockets more or less sum up Québec-based Philippe
Dubuc's collection for fall. There were a few scintillating moments,
as in a sweater-jacket top gaping open with straps - which on the buffed
model that wore it looked hot enough to melt the snow of a Canadian
winter - or the evening jacket with V-neck vest and T-shirt worn by
David Lindwall, former Dior Homme poster boy and current London In-Fashionista.
But overall the collection seemed unusually staid, weighted down by
too much black and gray. A burst of color might just have been the
thing to chase away the winter blues, but the detailed workmanship
of jeans with ribbing along the knees, or the intricate elbow patches
that ornamented jackets prove that Dubuc is a designer to be watched.
The press corps is growing with each of his Paris shows, and his well-placed
sponsors, Air France and Moët Chandon, are most certainly on to
something. Or, as one French editor put it afterwards, "It was
meant to be sold."