Schönberger Rolled but Didn't Rock
By Timothy Hagy
PARIS, January 30 - The Dirk Schönberger show, which took place
Sunday evening in the Couvent de Cordeliers, rolled by with high tech
staging - spotlights that traced models with laser precision, snow
that fell from the rafters and a globe that glowed on a large screen.
Despite the references to Euro rock culture, as in guitar cutouts applied
like insignia, or an instrument woven into a scarf and twirled around
the neck, the collection lacked the heat of past seasons.
The knitwear was certainly a high point, whether in a furry turtleneck sweater,
or in the transparent mesh that reveled a model's chiseled chest. And then
there were some spiffy new fabrics that blended wool with glistening gold Lurex
threads, and heavy silver metal that poured down the pleats of a set of evening
shirts. Sharp tailoring was evident elsewhere in short tailed jackets and trenches
that were inlaid with leather strips.
The collection was certainly commercially viable, if somewhat austere, and
perhaps that was all the beat that was needed.