Anna Sui's runways shows are always highly energetic,
colorful, crowd pleasers that delight the audience, and this season was
no exception. For fall, she tread on familiar territory, revisiting the
60's and channeling Louise Nevelson as her muse. Anna, a well known vintage
enthusiast and collector, can be found almost every weekend at the 26th
street flea market where she searches out great pieces AND inspiration.
The result this time was a signature romp- part boho, part homage to
Coco (but done in a very youthful, irreverent, almost campy way, naturally).
By mixing traditional menswear fabrics like tweed, woven plaid, windowpane
checks, and herringbone, with spotted pony skin, infusing them with lame,
trimming them with loopy yarn, or adding silk jacquard bow blouses, she
kept things from looking too classic or low keyed. Exuberant fur hats
from Adrienne Landau, knitwear from James Coviello, chunky gold chain
charm necklaces, earrings, and cocktail rings, contributed to the dizzying
mix. And if you think brooches are over- well, think again. Anna managed
to use interesting pins on hats, affixed to sweaters, and elsewhere,
as part of the equation, proving that nothing is ever 'over'- it's just
a matter of how it's done.
I admitted that directly following Narciso Rodriguez's pared down 'less is
more' show - the polar opposite of Anna's- I had the urge to take off all my
jewelry. Well, right after Anna's show, I quickly changed my mind! Standouts
included her lame tweed suits and coats, such as the chocolate lame tweed
coat trimmed with pony; a chocolate mohair boucle tweed jacket with mink trim
over a jacquard ruffle blouse and narrow chocolate velvet jeans; the chunky
woven plaid tweeds; the sweet baby doll empire waist dresses that Anna has
become famous for; a knitted red fox jacket worn over silk charmeuse bow
blouse and watercolor plaid on gold jacquard pant; a bejeweled copper
metallic twill dress; and the black multi metallic plaid taffeta jacket with
beaded embroidered trim worn with an iris metallic tweed beaded and
embroidered trim shell and black multi metallic plaid taffeta pants. Sound
dizzying? It was.