There was something a bit ironic (or should I say, surrealistic)
about Ralph Rucci quietly and serenely showing what many feel was his
best collection yet-as he did, on the final day of shows (Friday)- followed
by Jennifer Lopez and her overly hyped and overly speculated Sweetface
debut. As I said-talk about going from the sublime to the ridiculous.
And sublime it was. Before an audience that included fans and customers
like Barbara Walters, Diana Taylor (Mayor Bloomberg's gal pal), San Francisco
social figure-Tatiana Soroko, and fashion icon Deeda Blair, Mr. Rucci
received a standing ovation for his amazingly executed and fabricated
day and eveningwear that was never overdone, and was marked by perfect
proportions and struck a perfect balance. From the fingerless crocodile
'gloves' (which were not really gloves at all but 'hand covers'), to
the chic low heeled over the knee boots that were colored and fabricated
to match each outfit they were shown with (this created one beautiful,
unbroken line), the effect was surprisingly youthful and achingly modern,
despite the obvious luxuriousness of the fabrics (embroidered crepe,
suede back golden sable, cashmere, broadtail, chinchilla, alligator,
feathered tulle).
There were so many incredible outfits it's impossible
to list them in a short space, but standouts were the simple yet amazing
off white sheath dress that opened the show (with cut out shoulder
details); an aubergine alligator knee length coat; the simply divine
black broadtail sheath; the bittersweet chocolate broadtail tailleur
(comprised of a fitted jacket and knee length skirt worn with brown
suede over the knee boots); the black/brown matte alligator/paillette
gown which was comprised of an alligator tunic over a long paillette
skirt; the knitted barguzin sable pullover and stole worn with narrow
aubergine paillette pants (and had the amazing simplicity of a simple
cashmere sweater and wool pant). The wonderful surprise what that in
addition to Mr. Rucci's ready to wear collection for fall, we were
treated to his spring 2005 haute couture line, which had been scheduled
for the Paris Collections in January. It was a joy and honor to be
able to glimpse up close and personal the nude embroidered bodice and
taupe gazaar skirt; fluted black silk jersey gown with arrestingly
cut out back; gold bullion macramé and nude
suede dress and coat; and black double-faced wool suspension suit. When
the finale came out (traditionally thought of as 'the bride')- which
in this case, was a very full yet simple ivory floral 'infanta'- one
of Ralph's signature pieces, I couldn't help but think how more incredible
a choice this would have been, for Melania Knauss's wedding gown, than
that garish, overdone, over the top, and ultimately unflattering (yikes,
that headpiece!) Dior monstrosity she settled on. Sorry Andre!
|