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as four Interview >
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Spring 2005 Carol Christian Poell >
A Jeweled Passion >
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After last season's unusually sporty feel (complete with polo shirts, shirtdresses, many more pants than in past seasons), 24 year old Zac is back doing what he does best, and what he has made a name with: 40's inspired, unapologetically dressed up separates, cocktail dresses, and evening gowns, that celebrate the female form and call to mind the Golden days of Hollywood. Even though he told WWD prior to the show, that he was inspired by a "regal gypsy" and was going after the feeling of "relaxed luxury" his mindset and approach have always been more about cocktail hour or evening, than daytime. And that's perfectly fine- there are enough other designers who fill those voids. In fact, in too many other collections, it seemed evening had taken a back seat to the daytime portion, so a show devoted to life's more dressed up moments is certainly welcome. Even when Zac shows separates- blouses, skirts, sweaters, and pants- they are hardly basics, but luxurious and fluid, rendered in silk snake, silk charmeuse, dore silk, silk paisley, or silk gauze, boasting adept dressmaking details (very full short puffed sleeves, pleats, ruffles, embroidery).

While Mr. Posen played around with volume this season, showing some coats and jackets with eased up silhouettes, a number of skirts with exuberant movement, the majority of the collection was body-conscious, fitted and flared, molding the body, and accentuating the hourglass frame of his ideal customer. As usual, it was the evening gowns (in gold silk voile, lilac silk, green moiré, blue velvet, and ending with the dramatic torso hugging purple strapless number with a gorgeous back) that were the real crowd pleasers, drawing thunderous applause. The biggest cheerleader was Zac's new business partner, P. Diddy, who was sitting front row center, working the room, shaking hands, socializing, and posing for photo- ops prior to showtime.

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