For several seasons, French born Roland Mouret, who's traditionally shown in
London, has come to New York for Fashion Week and how lucky for us that he
has. In a week filled with volume, ornamentation, ethnic touches, eclectic
mixes, or clothes that sometimes appear to be too classic, Mouret always
stands out with his very grown up, beautifully constructed, sophisticated
pieces which are devoid of any extraneous details. Almost everything molds
the body hugging every curve- yet the effect remains exceedingly elegant and
chic nonetheless. What could be more 'French' in attitude than celebrating
the female form, and that is precisely what Mouret does season after season.
Simply put- his collections resemble nobody else's thanks to articulated
seams, and a true love for design and innovation.
The neutral color for fall is what one would expect to find for the season-
concentrating on browns, tans, black, plus yellow and a medium shade of dark
blue; Mouret also mixed in subtle menswear inspired tattersalls and
windowpane checks. Skirts, which are lean, elongating and narrow- but often
with interesting movement- hit the knee (or above), jackets are cut small and
narrow (one featured a peplum in back), and several coats in leather looked
especially smart. One tan coat, which had the appeal of a classic trench- was
anything but- as the front was cut to resemble a cropped bolero. Everything
was shown with an extremely skinny, high- heeled pump
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