Gilles Mendel, a third generation furrier, who showed in conjunction with
Olympus Fashion Week for the third time at the Tents in Bryant Park, took
inspiration from his youth in Paris for a "modern day gamine". The
French
born Russian descendent, who originally made a name for himself through his
innovative young and hip furs and fur accessories, (gaining a loyal group of
customers who are comprised of some of the city's most socially elite), cited
Charlotte Rampling and Romy Schneider as his muses because they "dressed
in
such easy classic style that always seemed so incredibly cool." Though I
was
disappointed with the ready to wear and quite frankly, didn't really see the
connection, because much of what was shown was hardly "classic". There
was
too much in the way of see-thru and sheer, pantsuits were cut very skimpily,
and many of the dresses were extremely short, (though there was one nude
embroidered silk tulle empire gown with metal trim that was pretty great),
and many of the fur pieces, which I normally adore, just seemed a tad over
designed.
That said, the very first coat out, a white broadtail Princess coat with
bouillon trim and ruffled edges, was breathtakingly beautiful, the springbuck
coat in shades of ivory and brown, cut narrow and high- belted for an empire
effect, was hip, cool, and effortless, AND the most brilliant pieces were the
two velvet mink 'puffers' (a black sheared mink 'down' coat and a pale
azure
mink 'down' jacket). This marks the first time mink has been made to resemble
nylon down.
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