When one thinks of Michael Kors, classic, clean lines and impeccable tailoring always come to mind. Michael may take sojourns to the ski slopes of Aspen, the Aegean, Palm Beach, or Capri to refresh himself, but he will always make sure to include very citified beautifully cut jackets, skirtsuits and pantsuits, as well as amazing coats of every length and proportion. For fall 2005, Michael may not have necessarily stretched himself, but the upbeat, perfectly proportioned, active sportswear-infused (ski references abounded) and eminently wearable clothes for men and women that were sent down the runway to a pulsating Gwen Stefani soundtrack, certainly put the audience in a good mood, and was like watching an instant replay of Michael’s biggest hits (and favorite things). And what’s wrong with that? In his program notes he cited past and present “American Thoroughbreds” like Clooney, Cooper, Hepburn, and Paltrow, as his inspiration.

Relying on a strong and graphic color palette of red, white, and black, with camel, khaki, cobalt, and amethyst thrown in as accents, the silhouette was basically lean and close to the body, though he did use volume subtly and/or sparingly, when called for- to great effect. Knockout coats and suits, with a decided military feeling looked especially good, including a red cashgora melton pea coat worn with black cashmere pullover and charcoal stretch flannel pants; a midcalf black wool tricotine military coat piped in red and belted with a wide black leather belt; and a black wool tricotine military suit with a tiny jacket piped in red (including the epaulets), featuring a row of small brass buttons, and a graceful, flared midcalf skirt worn with boots. Speaking of military, there were also many takes on the battle jacket (he showed them for men and women in black or red nylon). Michael also sent out a beautiful red melton Princess coat belted with a wide black leather belt; a smart and simple knee length black and white donegal tweed reefer coat worn over a white stretch cotton shirt, black skirt, and black turtleneck; and several oversized bathrobe coats sporting enormous fox collars (another Kors trademark).

Black looked especially chic when mixed with black underpinnings of different fabrics and textures- as typified by his black broadtail bomber jacket worn over a cashmere pullover and stretch crepe skirt; a black broadtail trench jacket, paired with black cashmere pullover and black silk faille ski pants; and the black cashgora melton Princess coat ‘thrown’ over a black cashmere sweater and black tulle ombre beaded knee length skirt. Michael is always the master at the mixed metaphor- ‘day for night’ (or ‘night for day’)- dressing, but he can make a mean evening dress too. Standouts included the black crystal/feather short dance dress, a black and white tweed ombre feather column, and the black tulle crystal bodice/georgette jersey gown.