Ecco Domani winner Richard Chai has worked for Marc Jacobs and designed
for
Tse, and his second collection of just 30 pieces shown at the tents in Bryant
Park was beautiful, innovative and original. Far less minimalistic than last
season's, fall was a testament to artistic vision, obvious designing skills
and replete with intricate details (peplums, origami insets, quilting,
padding, satin contrast), the jackets were fantastic, sweaters were
beautiful, skirts (which were generally on the long side, and marked by
volume, cartridge pleats, godets, and arc insets) were highly individual, and
the coats (often done in thick cotton moleskin with exaggerated cuffs) were
terrific.
Marked by a chic, subtle and pared down neutral color palette of ivory, navy,
eggplant, and brown, in Richard's hand, even a strong color like royal blue
-- generally difficult to use -- looked fabulous. He is definitely someone
to
watch. Among the standout pieces were the ivory cashmere/angora/wool flared
jacket with satin contrast worn with matching skirt; an oatmeal boiled wool
cut edge jacket and zip front skirt worn with an origami belt; the
beautifully fitted bottle green moleskin coat with exaggerated cuffs, belted
with an ivory satin origami belt and worn over an ivory silk jersey top and
eggplant wool and silk wrap skirt; an ivory wool jacket with satin godet
details; and the ivory collage gowns at the end.
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