By Margaret Pluvinage
Marc le Bihan’s collection was a study in opposites. The models
streamed out almost endlessly in black and white silk chiffon polka dotted
dresses, with the occasional splash of color in orange, grey, and pink.
These pretty dresses are meant for lunch on the lawn with Daisy and Jay
Gatsby. Black and white dominated the collection, so the sprays of color
reminded one that color and chiffon are meant to be together, and brightened
an otherwise monochromatic show. The late nineteenth century deconstructed
jackets over flowing silk dresses, and jodhpurs signified the moment
where the design influences of the eastern and western hemispheres meet.
These silhouettes are what fill the closet of the hip urbanite. By bringing
together the urban and suburban, one was left with designs that are easily
worn off the runway, but not worn in the fantasy of couture. Mr. Le Bihan
has a keen eye for bringing together the opposites. The images of Morgan
le Fay, Beau Brummel, and Yohji Yomomoto, were ever present in Mr. Le
Bihan’s work, to his credit it is not a small task to combine all
these genres and deliver wearable clothes. That said Mr. Le Bihan’s
clothes fell short of an haute couture collection, with the one exception
of a purple ball gown with a bustle and a long train, a perfect blend
of King Arthur’s court and an evening at John Jay Astor’s
mansion in New York during the gilded era, a true couture moment.