dressing men for fall
August, 2, 2006 - For the guy whose mantra is "I Heart Style", the Paris fall men's collections offered endless eye-catching ways to fill the wardrobe.

When the north wind is blowing, try a fur. It flew in profusion at both Jean Paul Gaultier and Dior Homme, where mink stoles and fox coats foamed in Bohemian splendor. The rust color used by Hedi Slimane had the uncanny effect of appearing illuminated when it caught the reflection of a burning flame used as a runway prop. Gaultier’s mink-trimmed housecoat, worn atop silk pajamas, was just the thing for the happy homemaker of West Hollywood.

For a night at the opera, black coat / white tie was de rigeur. Tuxedos came in unique cuts at Dior, they were paired with a net veil at Gaultier, they were emblazoned with orchid sequined designs at Ungaro and they were presented generically with a white vest by Stephano Pilati for Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.

The tailored suit was everywhere to be found. At Gieves, Savile Row savoir faire translated into an understated British look that never goes out of style. At Raf Simons, it was more transformation, as a burst of futurism brought a series of razor-cut jackets worn with tight leggings. At Comme des Garçons Plus, Rei Kawakubo went with a baggy cut - ornamenting jackets with streams of zigzag appliqué.

For the urban cowboy, Paul Smith dabbled in western shirts and denim filigree, as his collection inspired by the film Brokeback Mountain, combined Fleet Street with the High Chaparral.

For the dude who literally already has everything, there’s always room for one more Louis Vuitton sack - a new addition for the season is a crimson zebra-stripped gym bag.

Finally, for the guy who likes to stand out in the crowd. Why not try a little black skirt from Gaultier? Just the thing for cocktail hour.

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