Alexander McQueen

PARIS, October 7, 2006 - As a cold rain poured outside Le Cirque d'Hiver Friday night, Alexander McQueen enlarged his repertory with an elegant collection that centered the silhouette around inflated shoulders, rigid bust and enlarged hips.

By the light of an enormous chandelier, and accompaniment by the dulcet tones of string orchestra and harpsichord, models took to the runway. One dress swirled along, seemingly strung together with garlands of crêpe flowers. Another beige mousseline gown was overlaid with transparent mauve tulle that cascaded down to a trio of mushroom-like puffs. Embroidery in the form of exotic black birds perched on the front panel of another. If the look was a little theatrical it was also very much British. Instilled in the vaguely pastoral, vaguely erotic clothing was the undeniable print of a London designer refining the avantgarde.