 PARIS, July 1, 2006 - Dirk Schönberger entitled his show "Partisans of Love",
but this collection was aimed at soldiers of the type that trade in their
camouflage for evening suits, and do most of their maneuvering after hours,
and in subdued lighting. Ruffles enigmatically streamed down the inside of a
lapel, an extension of a collar dangled to waist level, and a series of
evening shirts were overlaid with at least half of a wife beater. Suits were
cut in an array of sizes, from a clean thin taper to an oversized tail that
billowed like a cape. Of special interest were the two evening jackets of
pale champagne silk, which though crushed and crumpled, shimmered like a wet
canvas. For accessories, necklaces were fixed with a clump of keys.
Schönberger is a master at detail, and his summertime collection was highly
polished and highly wearable. In program notes he wrote: "My love of American
literature, the beat generation of William S. Burroughts and Jack Kerouac,
Thomas Pynchon and their avant garde style depicting the roller coaster
lifestyle of the youth of their era is the inspiration for this collection
and still relevant for me today."
The show's setting in the grand stairway of the La Sorbonne was majestic.
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