ny fashion week spring 07

Vera Wang

The sportswear infused mood, and the layering predicated on dance and ballet, which has infused many collections has also served as inspiration for Vera Wang this season. Of course, considering that the athletic designer was a champion ice skater (and created costumes for Olympic ice skaters Nancy Kerrigan and Michelle Kwan), one whose uniform of choice has long been a layered ballet inspired mix of t’s, leggings, and easy sweaters, this is not exactly a stretch or uncharacteristic. It comes naturally for her.

But it goes without saying that Vera, whose trademark has long been her artistic, romantic, dreamy vision, predicated on couture like fabrics, billowy cloud like volume, a raised empire waist, dreamy tulle skirts, incredible construction (and the twisted organza corsages which decorate many of the pieces), would translate this look in her own way. There is no spandex or lycra in sight; in her hands, warm up pants are not fashioned from cotton sweatshirt fabric, but from chiffon or faille. A dancer’s typical wrapped ‘warm up’ sweater is not shown literally, as if taken straight from the Capezio store..but given a luxurious touch in the form of a navy cashmere wrap sweater worn over a steel washed organza tunic with black chrysanthemum embroidery layered over a tobacco chiffon slip tank.

In addition to dance and ballet, the line was infused with bits and pieces of a geisha’s wardrobe. Her elegant murky, neutral color palette (and that signature ‘mouse gray’) was given hits of peony, chrysanthemum, cherry blossom, poppies, yellow lily, based on the work of The Pillow Book of Sei-Shonagon.

Defining looks include the black textured silk obi jacket worn over a silk blush undershirt with twisted organza corsage over a black textured ‘tutu’ skirt; the steel cashmere zipped cardigan worn over a blush waffle organza dress with baroque embroidered pockets, layered over a black drawstring warm up pant; the floor length gold washed lame negligee dress with baroque embroidered pockets layered over a nude tulle t- shirt; the black cashmere dancer’s cardigan worn over an ivory washed organza hand painted green leaf dress; the full skirted navy faille bustle dress layered over a navy sheer organza t-shirt.

On a sad note, within the run of show was a page saying the show was dedicated to C.C. Wang, her beloved father who passed away on that morning. When Vera took to the stage, she was visibly tearful. It’s hard to imagine having to put the finishing touches on a collection under those sad circumstances.

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