Marc Jacobs
Waiting for the show to begin, one could hear the energetic soundtrack of several iconic 80’s hits wafting through the enormous New York Armory (Marc’s venue of choice for many years), not the least of which was Michael Jackson’s “Thriller”. And how apropos, since the collection was certainly a thriller. And in addition to many symbols of the over indulgent 80’s (particularly glitter and shine), slouchy athletic wear and sportswear, Marc also referenced the jackets favored by the famed recording icon. In retrospect, it seems as though Marc couldn’t think of enough things to add silver, gold, or jewels to, including caps, bags, head bands, hair nets, thongs, and wrist bands. The only thing missing were the jeweled gloves (I think!)
Marc Jacobs is THE show of every New York Fashion Week, one that always sets the tone for what will follow in the coming season or seasons. And Marc never fails to surprise and keep the fashion flock wondering what he will do for an encore. Since fall 2006 was such a major statement about layering, sportswear, and the notion of street couture, I suppose it was not surprising that the designer continued the theme into spring, but applying it in a far more dressed up, artistic, inventive, and creative way. And making it light as air and frothy. When Karen Elson came out in her knee length striped silk dress, the wind lifted up the billowy sleeves and made her look as though she were a butterfly taking off in flight.
The neutral and organic color palette (white, ivory, beige, putty, gray, black) and the chic nubby tweeds were a perfect foil (pardon the pun) for the recurring silver and gold. And with the exception of some amazingly constructed and cloud like gazar or faille dresses, every outfit was comprised of at least 6 different parts. In one mind boggling combination, a washed suede motorcycle jacket worn with a multi hem cashmere tank, sequined skirt, linen gauze pant, was accessorized with a linen cap, jersey head scarf, crocheted string scarf, metallic kangaroo patchwork shopper and jeweled thongs. In another, a gold metallic kangaroo trench coat was worn with a cellophane lame blouse, satin pant, linen cap, crocheted metal head band, and jeweled shoe. Marc managed to use his beloved tweeds to best advantage, putting a spin on the time old classic. His tulle tweed blazer was thrown over a cut up cashmere tank, and gauze short, accessorized with a linen cap, t-shirt head band, canvas patchwork bag, and iguana sandal.
Almost nothing was left unadorned (even the heads of the models, whose faces were often obscured in their interesting headwear (kangaroo caps, head bands, jeweled bandanas) which were sometimes layered for heightened effect. Their hair was long and straight- pulled back into sleek and youthful ponytails. It’s the kind of show that leaves you re- thinking your entire wardrobe. And thinking that sometimes it’s more fun to be creative and exuberant than safe and boring. Coco Chanel (a woman who certainly knew a thing or two about style) once made the observation that when you are getting ready to go out the door- always remove one thing. After seeing Marc, I think I’d be more inclined to add something on. Of course, Diana Vreeland, another authority on style, said, “Bad taste is better than no taste”.
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