Derek Lam
Derek Lam was inspired by “the crisp, athletic classicism of all-American sportswear” and his strong earthy collection comprised of beautifully constructed, highly collectibles pieces, (and predicated on interesting mixes), was an homage to American sportswear icons like Geoffrey Beene, Bonnie Cashin, and Claire McCardell…whose names he used to identify specific pieces within the line. For example, there was the McCardell popover dress with Amish blanket quilting; the Cashin empire waist a line coat, and the Beene Bag tank dress with Chantilly lace trim.
The clothes looked cool, comfortable, easy, and completely believable- the sort of distinctive classics and reliable items women always need and love to have in their closets. Athletics were a reference point and the word “athletic” was used to describe several outfits. Traditional American fabrics like ticking stripe, awning stripe, madras plaid, and seersucker were used along with matte crocodile and leather, silk georgette, Chantilly lace, and silk jacquard. An emphasis on volume was very much in evidence, and the leggings Derek made a statement with for fall were replaced by cropped chino “utility” pants that were decidedly full around the hip, tapering to the bottom. Nothing was tight or contorted and the fullness and volume also made for a feeling of luxury.
As always, the outerwear is the focal point and Derek’s coats are always stellar. This time was no exception (as exemplified by the natural ticking stripe cotton blanket quilt patchwork trench and the natural and grey cotton ottoman “Cashin” empire waist a line coat). There were brushed cotton and leather anoraks, brushed cotton and leather tunics (the tunic worn over pants was a major statement), and voluminous dresses. The active sportswear mood carried over into evening with a navy paper taffeta anorak gown. But there were also a group of color blocked and pleated silk chiffons and two one shouldered navy beauties (one in silk jersey and another in silk chiffon).
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