ny fashion week spring 07 by marilyn kirschner

Michael Kors

Michael’s program notes cited “Turning Point”, the “grace of the dancer and the athlete” as inspiration for a collection built around “re imagined basics”. Based around a pared down neutral color palette of black, white, nude, pink, and beige, fabrics of choice were cashmere, stretch merino, stretch viscose, matte jersey, silk georgette, nylon, cotton eyelet and linen. Movement and layering was fundamental and key pieces were the wrap stretch merino ballet cardigan, black stretch viscose bodysuit, and the black stretch jersey leggings (which I could have done without because they don’t seem especially elegant or newsworthy, and everyone is already wearing them).

The focus was clearly on the body: the leg was exposed in short dresses, short skirts, or shorts; the waist was defined by wide belts encircling everything including the graceful and elegant matte jersey draped gowns; shoulders were exposed in slouchy, kimono style knitwear pieces that fell off the shoulder. Quite frankly, I kept thinking of “Flashdance”. The collection was almost like a replay of “Michael’s Greatest Hits” because many of the familiar pieces (slouchy menswear inspired blazers, cotton twill suits, trench coats, sporty anoraks, bombers, poplin shirts, jersey dresses) are reliable standbys that the designer has always revisited and reworked. Not that there’s anything wrong with that.

For me, the most appealing looks were not the ones comprised of spandex but rather summed up the idea of unforced, easy, sporty glamour. For example, the blush crepe canvas slouch blazer, heather cotton pullover, cassis linen tank and blush crepe canvas tap short accessorized with nude lace up flats; the suntan linen tank, layered beneath a white linen pullover, worn with slouchy black wool serge trousers; the sporty nylon anorak in truffle’ worn over a putty cashmere sweater dress with another cashmere sweater thrown over the shoulder and worn over bare legs hit the right note. As always, Michael’s trench coats are appealing and desirable and his full skirted knee length nude cotton eyelet trench with a tulle crinoline layered beneath was a charming and fresh take on a classic. For evening, Michael believes in the dress: short or long, bejeweled or simple. Examples of the former: the leggy diamond jersey cowl back shift, knee length black matter jersey empire waist dress with wide satin ribbon belt. Examples of the latter: the nude silk chiffon strapless empire gown, black matter jersey toga gown, blush ombre matte jersey ‘Isadora’ gown

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