Doo.Ri Chung
In the last several seasons, there has been much buzz and excitement
surrounding Doo.Ri’s shows. And it’s proving to be well deserved. The young
and talented former Geoffrey Beene intern just won the Perry Ellis Award for
Women’s wear designer (given by the CFDA in June) and she is on her way to
becoming a major design force. The well edited 28 piece spring collection
hardly missed a step, was highly consistent with what she has done
previously, and hit all the right notes without being overdone, overworked,
or contrived. As usual, Doo.Ri focused on a smart, chic neutral and season
less color palette (white, vanilla, celadon, and an emphasis on all shades of
gray); draped and gathered jersey dresses both long and short; beautiful
sheer jersey blouses (this time with full elbow length sleeves and sheer
waist wraps, sportily shown with skinny quilted jersey and lycra pants);
plays on the tuxedo; quilted insets, pin tucks, crystal embellishments.
And the woman who is becoming synonomous with her unique take on the classic
trench, did not disappoint this time. Her beautiful grey ‘summer wool’ trench
was done in a thin menswear fabric, the sleeves had the trompe l’oeil effect
of being layered over a long sleeved jersey top, and was softened and
feminized through gathering and flounced detail from the hip down. Her former
mentor’s (Geoffrey Beene) influence was hard to miss and yes, that’s indeed a
‘good thing’ especially when translated into a cotton ‘tuxedo’ halter trimmed
with black satin ribbon, worn with black skinny jodhpur like pants by
Cecilia, or the graceful jersey and satin gowns at the end. One of the more
beautiful was a drop waisted black and white chiffon gown that was draped and
featured a satin paillette ‘harness’ top. But she adds her own young woman’s
perspective which modernizes and feminizes it.
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