Donna Karan

In Donna Karan’s program notes, she referred to the spring collection as “Urban Diversity”, and the global designer waxed poetic about her world travels, her embrace of different cultures, and the inherent beauty found in diversity. That’s all fine and dandy however, in a season which has emphasized cut, shape, structure, athletic wear, luxe sportif, and a streetwise, utilitarian feeling underlying even the most glamourous evening wear, her reliance on silk charmeuse, viscose, silk georgette looked a bit droopy. The 50 pieces worked in a neutral earthy palette seemed redundant and much of it didn’t seem especially flattering or easy to wear.

When Donna effortlessly combines her formidable sportswear technique with her artistic bent, that’s when the results are the most rewarding, as seen in recent seasons. But this time, the softness and often shapeless pieces did not seem functional (or relevant) for the lives most of us live and they certainly did not seem especially ‘urban’ as she noted. While some of Donna’s dresses looked good, (she made a statement with her ‘kaftan’ dresses both long and short, for day and evening), the group of trompe l'oeil jackets and coats (they were 1-piece but had the effect of a vest worn over, were tricky).

When she finally sent out an elongated and easy petrol blazer in hopsack over a jersey wrap shell and viscose linen and satin twill jodhpur, she seemed to be hitting her stride, and with the muslin cotton jacquard hooded jacket (which had the appeal of an anorak), worn belted over a short patchwork panel dress in voile, the gray viscose and linen satin twill hooded coat with drawstring waist over a layered tank and pleated short skirt, and lantern shaped black/incense overscaled ‘cracked earth’ printed linen coat, things started to look up. An ‘incense’ and bone ombre dyed silk charmeuse plunge wrap evening gown was beautiful a were a group of long kaftan dresses that were relatively simple yet dramatic. Too bad she didn’t have more like those.

< more shows

This Season's Trends Runway Report Featured Designers

© 1998-2007 All rights reserved.