new york autumn winter 07/08

Monique Lhuillier
by Marilyn Kirschner | photographed by Yannis Vlamos

On her run of show, Monique Lhuillier said that this season is all about industrial chic and cited inspiration by architecture, particuarly Frank Gehry's work and the Disney Concert Hall that she drives by every day going to work. Specifically, she took inspiration from the different kinds of metal and steel he uses to create unusual forms which was evident in her color palette: silver, copper, gunmetal, gold smoke, black, jewel blue, and illustrated in herwoven copper metallic asymmetrically draped bodice gown with jeweled belt. The drama came not from decoation but from the cut.. Fabrics included metallic jacquards, lame, silk chiffon mousseline, silk tulle, and wool jersey and the emphasis was on sharp tailoring and deconstructed techniques...

The somewhat modern, futuristic pieces were an admitted departure for the designer known more for her frothy, soft, and ultra feminine dresses. And while the former bridal wear designer did not abandon long gowns..(several were memorable and one in particular was outstanding: a black tulle cheetah taffeta asymmetrically draped bodice gown with pick up skirt and floral embroidered overlay), she concentrated on short (short cocktail dresses, short coats)...most of which were very body conscious and moded to the body. Another hallmark of the collection were the narrow jeweled belts that encircled the waistline of coats and dresses both long and short. Among the other notable pieces: a silver metallic floral jacquard high neck pleated cocktail dress with ruffled chiffon yoke; gold trapunto jacquard dolman bracelet sleeve short coat; gold floral brocade cocktail dress with front keyhole opening and circular seamed skirt; a gold trapunto jacquard dolman sleeve cropped jacket paired with a black double wool crepe halter cocktail dress with spiral cascades and ostrich feathered skirt; black the black chantilly lace one shoulder draped bodice gown belted with narrow jeweled belt.

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