new york autumn winter 07/08

by Marilyn Kirschner

For Fall, Doo.Ri, who was given the CFDA Swarovski Perry Ellis Award for 2006, wanted to continue the direction she developed for spring, "I am captivated by the concept of envelopment" she admitted. The colors were black, navy, charcoal, kelp, emerald, evergreen, and Bordeaux and they looked rich and unusual. Known for her love of jersey, and her ability to drape, the collection was once again, built around her signature fabric and was all about a curved hem which found its way on tunics, blouses, and dresses. Actually, the dresses and tunics looked one in the same since they were the same length (very short), which she showed over skinny gabardine pants or thick black satin opaque Wolford tights and a black wedge sole shoe. They blended together so you couldn't tell where one started and the other began. Some of the tops featured built in bras and many had arrestingly cut out backs, harnesses, and suspenders. Doo.Ri added Swarovski crystals to several dresses, including a Bordeaux and emerald striped georgette dress which hit just above the knee. Fur was used sparingly but effectively (massive fox cuffs trimmed an over blouse and a fox vest was shown over a chiffon dress). Her only long pieces in the collection were the two graceful numbers that closed the show: one in emerald with a printed silk tie harness and one in Bordeaux gown with a wrap jacket. Oh, and how could I leave out the trench coat, the first number out? In addition to jersey, Doo.Ri is known for her love of the trench and trench details and she opened the show with a knee length black wool trench shown over a silk halter dress with an organza hem.

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