new york autumn winter 07/08

Diane Von Furstenberg
by Marilyn Kirschner | photographed by Yannis Vlamos

Diane Von Furstenberg's program notes announced "La Movida" which is Spanish for "look ahead......and don't turn back." Diane was inspired by the ideas of "movement... freedom... modern... change, as well as the "drama and passions of Spain." As we were waiting for the show to begin, the energetic Latin beat playing in the background was obviously a taste of what was to come. Indeed, the iconic designer who is now also President of the CFDA, is entering a new phase of her life and the energy and optimism showed in her wonderful and upbeat collection. What was also obvious is that she is experimenting and moving forward; while there were some of the printed jerseys wrap dresses that put her on the map decades ago, and which she became famous for, that was hardly the only story, or the story at all. The collection, based primarily on short (above the knee) dresses and skirts, was notable for its variety (a variety of colors, shapes, silhouettes, fabrics). There were shirt dresses, dance dresses, cocktail dresses, trapeze dresses, dresses and coats, dresses and knit cardigans, and shift dresses. While there was a lot of color and pattern, (including oversized black and white polka dots as well as colorful bold graphic designs). Red was used alone or with black, most effectively in a 'Miro' inspired black dress with an enormous red half circle on the side. Speaking of black, there was plenty of this perennial favorite, and Audrey Hepburn appeared to be the inspiration for a group of Breakfast at Tiffany worthy lbds.

Diane loves the ease of volume, and played with volume in sturdy fabrics like fedora felt jersey, metal crochet, and taffeta. Several taffeta blouson tops were paired with full skirts and they looked refreshing. Embroidery, beading, and sequins were a big theme for the evening portion. All the jewelry was by Diane von Furstenberg for H. Stern and the shoes (sexy, colorful, open toe high heeled pumps) were by Christian Louboutin.

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