Whatever happened to Michael Herz and Graeme Fidler's ephemeral clothes bubbling with youthful exuberance? This season Aquascutum resonates with an overwhelming sense of muted restraint. The somber color palette of the collection is further accentuated by busy pleats and tucks. Not to mention the team’s ambitious bid to reinvent the trench falls seriously short of the mark. For Spring 2007 the designer duo seems to have lost their delicate touch animated by energetic strokes. Our advice: reclaim your tried and true essence. (Or as the industry insiders say, "Go back to your knitting.")

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