haute couture spring summer 07

By Timothy Hagy, Paris Editor | Photographed by Yannis Vlamos

It's hard to imagine what Ricardo Tisci could have been thinking when he sent out the 25 pieces that represented the spring couture collection for the House of Givenchy. Among the most striking—a dress with transparent cutouts placed not so seductively over the upper thigh, clunky slashed tops that weighted down both pantsuits and day wear, and then the the mummified straight jacket evening dresses slashed up the right leg, and a cape/gown reminiscent of the recently late Yvonne De Carlo's Munster wardrobe (only her costumes were more refined). Add in models with Carine Roitfeld look alike hairdos, and you get the High Definition version.

For ladies braving an inclement wintry mix to step out to a bad neighborhood on the fringe of Paris Tuesday night, the evening surely must have been disappointing.

It's amazing that Tisci was hired by the management of Givenchy, thirsty for a change of direction from the lackluster days of Julian McDonald, convinced that the young Italian's designs displayed a "couture-like" sensitivity.

Unfortunately, Givenchy now needs a new new study group to find a new new way forward. Equally lamentable is the fact the men's side of the house is doing no better. Ozwald Boateng's arrival to re-launch the label has resulted in its absence from the runways as the men's winter collections are shown next week in Paris.


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