paris autumn winter 07 08

Karl Lagerfeld
by Timothy Hagy | photographed by Yannis Vlamos

February 28, 2007 - If fashion designers have almost a sixth sense about predicting the future, the dark collection that Karl Lagerfeld showed early on Wednesday -edgy, urban pieces full of foreboding — could give one reason to pause. The day before a panic sent the Beijing stock market into meltdown. China has been seen as fashion's biggest emerging market, and it's not by chance that Fendi is sending Lagerfeld to the Great Wall in May to show an interim collection. Remember 2002?

Working in a linear, graphic silhouette, Lagerfeld used lots of trimmings: strips of leather, overlays of transparent tulle, borders of black jet, and streams of beads. He even swirled one evening dress in silver vinyl. Models trooped down the mirrored runway with extended fingernails painted hot pink — some of those stuck out the fingerless tips of turquoise gloves. But that was about it for color. Otherwise the collection was mired in a gloomy black. Viewed in entirety, the pieces looked like a pared down version of the former Lagerfeld Gallery, and so it is fair to wonder if some of these clothes might eventually wind up on the racks at H&M or Target.


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