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Paris Spring 2005
Dior
Demystifying Dior Ready-to-Wear

PARIS, October 5 - I've often wondered what the line of financiers that stretch along the front row of Dior Ready-to-Wear shows must be thinking. These grave men, plus one young woman, are not generally talkative, and so - who knows for sure?

Perhaps they are observing each new handbag and shoe that passes down the catwalk - something, in other words, to bring home the bacon. It's not surprising that the Dior Avenue Montaigne boutique, like Hermès and most other Parisian Houses, accepts hard cash in US dollars, yen and rubles up to an equivalent 3,000 Euro max.

Dior's finances have always been veiled in a sort of mystery. Christian Dior Perfume, which makes lots of money, is the only part of the house directly held by luxury conglomerate LVMH. Christian Dior Couture (haute couture, women's and men's ready-to-wear, and accessories) also makes money, and is helped along by the fact that it owns 21% of LVMH, and thus shares in Louis Vuitton's profits, as well as those of Christian Dior Perfume.

So, you begin to wonder if clothes even count. The Ready-to-Wear line that John Galliano sends down the runway each season is probably meant to attract attention as much as to attract buyers.

There was nothing at Tuesday's show to make you think otherwise. Take a magenta micro-skirt with ruffles slashed off so high it would need matching panties. Pair that with a black kimono top emblazoned with a drugged out mermaid. Add a white-feathered hat and against that backdrop, only the purse and sunglasses really stood out.

Elsewhere, memories of a 70s peace and love-in were manifested in turquoise tank tops reading "Dior Not War" and stamped with a pink fist. White silk slacks smelted with gold, and accessorized with a gilt purse, rounded out that ensemble. And for the beach, try a sea-foam green bikini with matching majestic cope trimmed in plumes.

If references to a distant anti-war era were not complete, Elvis Presley's granddaughterRiley Keough took her turn on the catwalk.

With the recipe working, and profits rising, it sure looks like smooth sailing as far as the eye can see.

When John takes the catwalk nowadays, trailed by his conspicuous bodyguards, one is left to wonder what danger could possibly be lurking inside the Dior tent.






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