Under the Big Top
New York, September 19, 2004. The eight days and 169 shows that marked
Olympus Fashion Week, Spring 2005, began with Hurricane Frances, coincided
with the 3rd anniversary of 9/ll/01, and ended serenely, coolly, and
calmly with two Ralphs (Lauren and Rucci). It was also a testament to
the amazing influence and continued domination of the aesthetic put forth
by Miuccia Prada. Not only were runways filled with
eccentric and eclectic mixes, prints and patterns of all kinds, brooches, lavish embellishments,
full circle skirts, vintage inspired looks, exotica and Orientalia, but
so too were members of the audience. As usual, the week seems to take
on a life of its own and is akin to a carnival- or should I say 3 ring
circus. Not only is the centralized location just steps away from Times
Square, but also an enormous white tent is constructed at Bryant Park
just for the occasion. To feed the continued and growing global interest
in/and fascination with fashion (or should I say, the celebrity aspect
of it all, which is certainly fueled by the press and the media), there
are camera crews, armies of paparazzi, and onlookers galore, who congregate
to record the proceedings, or to just catch a glimpse
of Janet Jackson, Mary J. Blige, Venus and Serena Williams, Joan Collins,
J. Lo, Paris Hilton, Keith Richards, Steve Tyler, Jessica Simpson, etc., as they take
their seats alongside members of the press, buyers, socialites, clients.
One almost forgets that behind the frenzy, this is really all about the
big business of fashion- and a big business it is.
If, ‘Variety is the spice of life’,
then Spring 2005 is looking to be highly ‘seasoned’. While
it’s becoming
harder and harder to hitch a season to just one trend, one buzzword, catchphrase,
or boil it down to one word or mood, there are many little sub-trends that
begin to emerge. And because women are becoming less and less inclined
to buy a fresh new wardrobe each season, or to patronize just one designer,
this is perfectly in step with consumer buying habits. So,
what really stood out? Prints, prints, and more prints (a dizzying variety); the mismatched
suit; an eased up silhouette- fuller skirts, boxier jackets, slouchier
pants, a- line and trapeze shapes; fabulous dresses for day and night;
a variety of shapes and lengths in both shorts and pants; lavish embellishments
(or newest still- the idea of jewelry built- in to clothing which obliterates
the need to actually wear jewelry); a touch of the exotic ranging from
Oriental, African, and Indian influences; bold color either mixed irreverently
or neutralized by khaki and white; noteworthy knitwear and sweaters- with
the cardigan replacing jackets; athletic and sportswear influences; the
emergence of the bolero; fur being treated as another fabric and used year
round. Still, the bottom line is that designers can only propose- it is
up to the customer to decide which items best suit her needs, pocketbook,
body type, age, lifestyle, occupation, and personality.
Olympus Fashion Week, New York Spring 2005 Collections:
169 fashion shows, 30% of which- as it has been repeatedly pointed out-
were staged by lesser-known designers (or those who are relatively
unknown except to the fashion cognoscenti) were crowded into 8 jam-packed
days and nights.
But simply having a well established identity,
big ticket name, legendary label, or high profile company does NOT
ensure positive results all the time, and it certainly does not 100%
guarantee a well accepted and highly acclaimed show. The fashion business
has become extremely competitive and it’s all about proving yourself
season after season- staying power and longevity is not an easy task.
The Establishment:
There were many voices and fashion philosophies on view- and it’s
never just about one look, or one trend anymore, as I pointed out, but
rather, many sub-trends. As it turns out this season, many of those who
comprise the hierarchy, the ‘Deans’ of American fashion,
continued to do what they do best, presenting strong signature collections,
and thereby representing The Defining Moments of the Season.
The Young Guns:
The newer kids on the block, they are not quite household names (yet)- though some are easily on their way- but they are stars in the world of fashion design. This group has undeniably gained notoriety and have captured the imagination and attention of retailers, editors, and customers.they promise to be legends of the future.
