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Certainly, one can't fault Francisco Costa for attempting to put his stamp on the house of Calvin Klein. In his second season as head of design for this major American label, he cited Lauren Hutton of the 70's as his major inspiration, and there were some beautiful washed silk shirtdresses, languidly tailored jackets and pants, belted wool felt coats, shearling vests and jackets, as well as beautiful tulle, satin, and charmeuse nightgown inspired evening dresses. And the collection, rendered in chic neutrals, which had a modern and edgy vibe, really resembled nothing else shown during Fashion Week- a nice change of pace after all. Well, okay- so there were many pieces that recalled to mind Gucci- since Costa had been head of design for the house of Gucci in Milan, working under Tom Ford, I suppose that shouldn't be too surprising.
But that said, too much of what was shown (with its long hemlines, plunging necklines, and see thru tops) proved difficult to wear- even on his line- up of young, tall, skinny models. If it doesn't look good on them- how does he expect the rest of us mortals to wear it? And what was he thinking with all that sheerness for the fall season? In his launch last September for the spring 2004 season, Costa received mixed reviews for what many considered to be far too much sheerness, so it's puzzling that he would continue along those lines in such an exaggerated way for the fall. Stay tuned!
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