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Someone told me that the Chanel show was supposed to reflect Lagerfeld’s interest in the life of minor intellectual figure Lou Andreas-Salome. Lou cracked the whip (in a photograph, anyway) on Neitzsche (smart girl), Rilke (she told him that his first name, Maria, was too effeminate), and Freud (she ultimately became an accolyte). There is a well known, prim photograph of her looking decidely un-Chanel, with her Freudian colleagues in the early part of the century. OK, designers have to find their muses somewhere, and I think Lou Andreas-Salome is a better one than say, Betty Catroux, a muse of Saint Laurent, but not as good as Catherine Deneuve, who has re-aligned her star to Gaultier’s. This is what you need to know about the collection: tight, men’s formal jackets, starched white shirts and stunning ruffled, street length skirts with little paillettes that chimed as the models walked. The fishnet and dotted stockings and the high heels with ankle bracelets were amazing
Photographs courtesy of First View
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