Photographed by Gabriel Karanfil

PARIS, October 5, 2005 - If the down look on the faces of many an editor filing out of the Ungaro show on Wednesday was any indication, the House still has a ways to go under the artistic direction of Vincent Darré. His second ready-to-wear collection, replete with flamenco dancer and tango motifs, changed direction from the 60s archival style that dominated his first; but changing gears may not have been enough to save the day.

High ruffled collars, flared pencil skirts and short shorts dominated the show. The notable lack of evening wear seemed rather jarring for a noble label, traditionally placed on the first tier of elegance.

All was not lost, however. Beautiful lemon, apricot and pale lilac silk outfits were a high point. More importantly, the stamp of Emanuel Ungaro was clearly evident in a mauve day dress with an asymmetrical hemline entitled "Impressionist".

The colors were there, the ideas were there, and the talent of the designer occasionally bubbled to the surface. All that's left is to put the pieces of the puzzle together.

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