Alexandre Herchcovitch is known for his colorful, upbeat, print
and pattern mixes but this time, he went in a far more moody and dark direction
for a fierce and strong collection that seemed to be one part Victorian,
one part Eastern European, one part medieval, and one part "Pollyanna" (I
kept think about ‘Zena Warrior’). It reflected his idea of "rebellious
luxury, urban aggressiveness, and volume" and "what would happen if a young
Italian Renaissance princess appeared these days, and had the influence
of today’s musical trends- mainly rock."
There seemed to be an abundance of black, amazingly constructed jackets and coats featuring a range of details in a mix of shapes, lengths, and silhouettes, but all with a somewhat military, armor-like feeling. In fact, many of these outstanding outerwear pieces, which defied description, could easily be described as collectibles, with their exaggeratedly short puffed or leg o mutton sleeves, extended shoulders, and silver hardware (large buttons, zippers, and buckles). He used wedge heeled knee length boots in black or dark distressed leather to add to the strong and grounded, either tucking skinny pants into them or using them to offset delicate chiffon dresses.
It was all about the mix and interesting juxtapositions (the yin and yang of fashion which Alexandre knows so well), so it was hardly surprising that the designer played with proportion, mixed hard and soft, menswear with feminine, day with night, and though he did use a lot of heavy black, it was sometimes counterbalanced with light, soft, sheer, and irresistibly colorful chiffon pieces that played off the heaviness, as epitomized in the last outfit out, a graceful, full skirted floor length color block chiffon gown paired with a cropped black wool jacket.