Nicole Farhi has come along way since her Victorian porcelain dolls debuted in Autumn 2005. Gone are the larger-than-life historical references and her new collection is all about the here and now. No-nonsense, career-friendly ensembles, cast in moody hues, like black, gray, mocha and mossy green-- enlivened with a few splashes of burgundy and red -- form the backbone of the lineup.

However, the lavish tweeds, slinky jerseys, sumptuous velvets and opulent napped leathers make up for all the excitement lost in the color story. Cut and tailored to perfection, the designer’s coulettes, cropped cigarillo pants, duster coats and fitted jackets have the ability to stand on their own, sans exuberant pigments. Even though, Nicole’s new creations may initially appear minimalist and utilitarian, in reality, they make a subtle (and admittedly strong) case for understated luxury.

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