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as four Interview
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Spring 2005
A Jeweled Passion
Sculpture to Wear
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Carol Christian Poell
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Runway Report
Haute Couture - Spring '06
São Paulo Fashion Week
Paris Men's Wear - Winter '06
Paris - Spring '06
Milan - Spring '06
NY - Winter '06
LA - Spring'06
London - Spring '06
SF Fashion Week




This fall black is back. Under Miuccia Prada’s lead, the lightless color has risen from the dead with a vengeance. Prada successfully resurrecting sleek, understated clothes -- stripping away ostentations embellishments a lá beadings, embroideries, and vanity bird feathers. Elegant simplicity, rigorous tailoring, and streamlined silhouettes characterize Muiccia’s trend setting autumnal creations.

Surprisingly, Pucci and Marni -- labels known for their play on exuberant shades-- have also jumped on the bandwagon, casting their new creations in somber palettes. Indeed, the in-look of the new season is that of the elegant Sicilian widow!

However, even in the face of the “Six Feet Under” craze, Cavalli remains an aberration -- as always. Extravagant and theatrical to the core, his new collection is a colorful affair underscored by playful mischief. Signor Cavalli’s lithe silk chiffon red carpet dresses, fur trimmed crock coats, and Australian crystal covered evening gowns in zingy hues celebrate luxurious excess.  Ultimately, Roberto’s smoldering Bella Donnas refuse to give up tantalizingly sexy clothes that tease, entice, and tempt.

 

This season, Parisian style equals fearless sophistication. Tailored suits, defined by clean lines, form the backbone of this look. Even the ultra feminine pieces, articulated by French designers, are embellished with masculine details. Fearless and tinged with a philosophical edge, these clothes demand attention. To communicate such confident polish, these pieces opt for bold constructions.

Taking the lead, supreme couturier, Lagerfeld, uses boys as inspiration for his womens line. Digressing from pleated minis and girly dresses, the man behind Chanel’s successful reinvention, cozies up to Coco’s legacy. Similarly, Valentino’s runway is dominated by trousers, slacks, and tailored jackets, but alongside androgyny, the maestro Italiano offers a delectable sampling of romance. His whimsical silk dresses, graceful wool coats, and taffeta ruffle trimmed evening gowns are utterly chic and undeniably timeless.

Of course, Paris would be incomplete without the element of drama. So, juxtaposed against the minimalist daywear creations are larger than life constructions accentuated by opulent fabrics, theatrical silhouettes, and operatic use of color. As exemplified by Vivienne Westwood’s Mary Antoinette ball gowns complete with whalebone corsets and massive balloon skirts, dazzling spectacle never goes out of style in the City of Lights.

 

This fall, simply go tropical!  Take your cue from São Paulo, where the national costume is an itsy bitsy bikini. Immediately, book a flight to the southern hemisphere and sizzle on the beach as the less fortunate mourn the falling leaves.

For your trip, pack up a scorching array of outfits in tart hues. Think sultry vixen, flaunting her statuesque body and flagrant sex appeal.  Gather all your courage and prepare to give onlookers a memorable adrenalin shock. Go ahead and put on an opulent Triton dress or a teeny weenie Rosa Cha number.

 

New York is a mind bogglingly international capital.  This town is all about the harmony of clashes. Certainly, eclecticism finds true meaning in the Big Apple, where one can observe retro, classic, futuristic, Boho chic, and Rock n’ Roll influences on a stroll through Central Park. The same rule applies to the runway. To appear truly Manhattanite, obliterate all reservations and go with the flow. Funky, costumey, glitzy, reserved, opulent, minimalist…it all works!

NYC’s hardcore fashion cognoscenti have a penchant for lady-like elegance. Prim and proper is simply the way to go in the Upper East Side. Modesty can be extremely alluring and chic especially if played up by the occasional use of bold colors. Think modern refinement, sans uptight stiffness. Narciso Rodriguez’s architectural designs and Oscar de la Renta’s fairytale creations are perfect for such an effect.

However, donning Jackie O-esque attire is not the only be au courant in this neck of the woods. The key is to push the envelope and innovate constantly. Stagnation is artistic suicide.

For autumn, even wunder-designer Marc Jacobs, whose optimistic, happy, and joyful spring collection received a standing ovation, has shifted gears towards more controversial and somber destinations. On a similar note, paired up with ghetto fabulous rap mogul Sean P. Diddy Combs, Zac Posen has split from country club chic and began to explore glamour in the form of 40’s inspired separates, cocktail dresses, and evening gowns, topped off by the ever more controversial fur cape. Follow suit, and take a leap of faith in fashion!

 

Los Angeles is a melting pot of world cultures. However, for long people have thought that Tinsel Town’s stylistic sensibilities could be summed up by the jeans & jersey look. Fashionlines believes talented LA designers’ fall collections point to the contrary.

Louis Verdad’s impeccable reinterpretations of 50’s fashions with a Latin flare and Jenni Kayne’s sequined Victorian renditions are prime examples of the cutting-edge élan Los Angels has to offer. We predict Louis’s wool rigorously tailored sits, pinstripe petticoat skirts and silk chiffon blouses will be the new season’s must haves. The word out on the street is that style icon, Rene Zelleweger, has preordered Verdad’s slim fitting slacks in every color available.

Don’t misunderstand, alongside being more grown up and sophisticated, LA fashion is still positively fun. Petro Zillia’s 80’s flavored disco gear, channeling Bianca Jagger and Lauren Hutton, is just right for painting opening nights and galas red.  

 

London fashion for fall is rather high browed. Now that Vivienne West Wood is showing in Paris, irreverence no longer rages under the shadow of Big Ben. Led by Paul Smith, the boarding school aristocrat movement is steadily gaining momentum. The thrills of the moment are argyle jumpers, checkered pants, and herringbone coats. 

Even St. Martin’s wild child Julien Macdonald has gone demure. Sleek cigarillo pants, romantic mermaid skirts, and bejeweled sweater vests dictate his look. Similarly, Nicole Farhi’s porcelain dolls in velvet ballroom dresses are an allusion to the royal heritage of Great Britain.  In short, fall’s London chic heavily references Jayne Eyre, polo games at Eaton, and weekend getaways to Cadbury.

 

 


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