by Gabriel Karanfil
PARIS, October 5, 2005 - If the down look on
the faces of many an editor filing out of the Ungaro show on Wednesday
was any indication, the House still has a ways to go under the
artistic direction of Vincent Darré. His
second ready-to-wear collection, replete with flamenco dancer and tango
motifs, changed direction from the 60s archival style that dominated his
first; but changing gears may not have been enough to save the day.
High ruffled collars, flared pencil skirts and short shorts dominated the
show. The notable lack of evening wear seemed rather jarring for a noble
label, traditionally placed on the first tier of elegance.
All was not lost, however. Beautiful lemon, apricot and pale lilac silk
outfits were a high point. More importantly, the stamp of Emanuel Ungaro was
clearly evident in a mauve day dress with an asymmetrical hemline entitled "Impressionist".
The colors were there, the ideas were there, and the talent of the designer
occasionally bubbled to the surface. All that's left is to put the pieces of
the puzzle together.