At Rochas, The Silvery Sweep of Winter
PARIS, March 1, 2006 - Imagine a Monet canvas of 19th Paris at twilight -
touches of silvery gray, a plume of black smoke billowing from a sooty
chimney, the snow-white effect of wintry haze - and you have the essence of
the Rochas collection for Fall 2006.
Meant to evoke chimney sweeps of a bygone era, Oliver Theyskens turned his
sketch book into a study of dark and broody impressionism. His exquisite
evening gowns appeared to be plumes of tulle and silk smoke - a technical
effect of irrisistable charm that gave so much polish to these pieces. Even
the short pant suits and shimmering cocktail dresses that permeated the first
half of the show looked sleek and urban.
On a day that spit snow in Paris, and at the end of a fashion season that had
editors yearning for spring (Hamish Bowles said on leaving the Gaultier show
on Tuesday that he'd had to take a 12 hour flight to the Caribbean between
Milan and Paris just to get a dose of sunshine), Theyskens made you almost
crave winter - or at least the icy beauty of it.