Pleet Please!

New York Designer Samantha Pleet Talks About Her Eponymous Line

I've heard that it actually seems like spring in some parts of the country (Oh, I do miss you, California). Here in Seattle, the wind is still whistling, the rain is still falling, and I'm still avoiding suede shoes and bags for fear of their imminent watery ruin. I can't tell if we're slipping back into winter or entering warm climates. I look at all the mocking spring window displays and catalogues and think, "No! No! No!" I'm definitely not in the right state of mind to buy pastels, florals or ruffles when I haven't even had a chance to closet my winter coats (sigh).

After fishing around on the Internet, I discovered Miss Samantha Pleet. Her eponymous collection of dark, muted palettes and ultra-short hemlines for spring brings some shadows to the sun (Imagine Oliver Twist in booty shorts). One word of advice—Step lively, ladies! Get those gams toned and ready for show! Pleet's clothing is clearly meant to be worn on cobbled streets or bustling metropolises rather than through the fields and beaches of most springtime fantasies: her non-spring-like line tells me there's a place for all of us in the shade. I had a chance to sit down with Miss Pleet to chat about the inspiration behind her Spring and Fall 2007 collections.

I always start out with this one: Where does your inspiration come from?
My inspiration comes from everywhere: the people I meet, the adventures I take walking down the street, books I read, riding a train, seeing beautiful things and places. I want to recreate those experiences in the clothing I design. Since my childhood, I have created clothing for all the characters my friends and I would dream up. I had a trunk full of old fabrics and dresses that I would use and we would run around, cause trouble and look amazing! Now I am 25 and I still like to do that today!

What did you learn as an As Four and Harper's Bazaar intern?
I interned at As Four for during my senior year at Pratt. I did a little of everything, and it was such a great experience. I sourced fabric, made patterns, sewed, cut--you name it! I learned so much while at As Four, but most importantly, I learned that anything goes as long as it makes sense and has direction. It was a very inspiring place to work.

At Harper's Bazaar I learned about the editorial side of fashion. I really loved working at Harper's Bazaar as well. I was stylist's assistant: I would put together looks, ran errands, returns, and much more. I love these jobs where you do more than one thing--you don't have time to be bored and there is always something new to learn. That's what I love about my job now; you never stop learning and trying new things! Having both of those experiences really gave me an idea of what to expect before I set out to work on my own line.

How different is the fashion world from the way you first perceived it?
I always thought it would be impossible to have my own line--so it's so wonderful that it worked out. When I first started, I went around to stores wearing the clothes and some of the owners would ask me about them. From there, I made appointments to bring in the clothes. Next thing you know, I started getting orders and it just evolved from there. I really started my company from the ground up--it is a little different than starting out with the big launch. I learn new things everyday, and I love seeing my designs and ideas evolve.

What fictional character would you most want to dress?
Little Red Riding Hood would be a wonderful character to dress. She could wear anything from my collection and still be in character. How could the Wolf resist?!

Who are the muse(s) for your fall collection?
For Fall 2007, some of my muses were imaginary like the revolutionaries and dandies of the 1700s. Real people inspire me too; I love to dress all my friends, Well Revered (www.wellrevered.com), and Au Revoir Simone (www.aurevoirsimone.com).

You've got some great names for the pieces in your collections--probably some of the best and most creative I've seen. How do you come up with them and how important are they to the piece itself?
I love to name the pieces in my collection, many of the names come from literature--I flip through books I have been reading to find inspiration for them. Some names are just perfectly random; they just pop into my head and they just work! Sometimes I get together with friends and just brainstorm—it's kind of like naming a child!

There are a lot of artist / designer collaborations going on these days. Who would you most like to collaborate with? or do you like working on your own the most?
I am always collaborating with different artists and designers. Right now I'm collaborating with Jessica Skiles of Well Revered. She did all the music and the jewelry for my Fall 2007 show. I am also working on an annual fashion zine called Ghostown Press due to launch in September (there will also be an accompanied exhibition).

What would you name as the star piece of your Spring 2007 collection? Fall 2007?
The Noble Jacket is one of my favorite pieces for Fall 2007. It goes with everything in the collection. I love it paired with shorts and a vest or over one of the rompers! It has a great fit and it looks like I found it at an antique store. It's impossible to find an antique jacket like this that will actually fit the way you want it too.

For Spring 07 I think the Kellerwald Jumper stands out. I wear it all the time! It's a modern take on the lederhosen I saw when I went to Germany. It is such a cute piece--I wear it all the time! It's very hard for me to choose a favorite because each piece in my collection is special and different.

I see the jumper appearing multiple times in your work. What's its significance?
It always looks sassy you don't have to try--you just put it on and go out!

Short hems vs. long hems?
Short--isn't it obvious?! I like the way short skirts and shorts look. It hasn't been so long in our history that women have had the opportunity to wear them!

Summer vacation spot and five things you'll bring with you?
I love to travel. This summer I will most likely end up in Paris. I haven't planned where else I want to go yet from there--maybe Finland? I try to go somewhere new every summer. The five things I'll bring with me to Paris are a camera, my favorite clothes, guidebooks for shopping, Patrick, and it would be nice if I could bring money.

What do you foresee for your future? Accessories? Collabs?
I would love to work on shoes and bags soon. I would also like to collaborate on jewelry. Who knows what the future will hold!

What's your creative process like? Your work ethic?
I sketch out ideas, get swatches, and make the clothes that I want to wear. I work very intensely on the collection. It starts to come to shape when you can start putting outfits together and it tells my story.

Any advice to new designers?
Choose the direction you want to go in first because that will be what defines you and your work. Create what you want to see around you: your goal should be something that brings passion and purpose into your life.

-Chako Suzuki