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Paris Menswear Report
Kenzo's South American Getaway - click for photos
Written by Timothy Hagy, photography courtesy of Kenzo

PARIS, July 4 - Kenzo has recently been going through a bit of turbulence, but on Sunday morning, the House unveiled a colorful, spiffy collection aimed at smooth skies and clear sailing. Staged in the new headquarters, just across Rue de Pont Neuf from big (LVMH) brother Louis Vuitton, the models were sent out onto a wrap-around runway dusted with cinnamon-colored sand.

Mayan tattoo motifs and Native American patterns spiced up the collection, which headed towards far off cultures and exotic destinations. The theme of escapism that so dominated Milan this season found at least one taker in Paris. Evening suits were wrapped up with chocolate, plum and turquoise satin cummerbunds, while fanciful Aztec-like embroidery wound around sleeves and trimmed lapels. A crumpled goldenrod linen suit, or large cut blue chrysanthemum print pants rounded out the colorful show. According to program notes, hats were formed of layered ribbons and braided raffia, while cuff links were engraved with designs found in the stone of Inca temples.

Some of the models got so longhaired and androgynous that you would have had to take more than their hats off to confirm their sex. And perhaps that_s also part of the larger picture of men's wear, as it stretches past the normal codes and into an era where boys and girls mingle in the same wardrobe.

Before the show, Japanese-style canapés were served on wooden trays, though the miniature bottle of Moët et Chandon were the only nourishment that seemed to interest the fashion crowd. Flying might be smoke free these days, but thank heaven's the bar cart is still open.

Kenzo's South American Getaway - click for photos
Dior, Gaultier, Kenzo, Marongiu, Matsushima, Paul Smith, Petrov, Dubuc, Simons, Vuitton

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