Fashionlines Online Magazine
Fashion & Trends People & Places Art & Design Beauty & Health Shopping About Us Editor's Note
This Season's Trends
Customize Your Style
Chantal's Secret:
Risks and Rewards of the Birkin Bag
Let the Fur Fly
Family Jewels
LA Finds
Ins and Outs of 2005
Young Parisian Chic
Couture Snowbunny
Haute Couture Fashion Week
São Paulo Fashion Week
In the Bag
Hollywood's Hottest Shoes
The Best RTW of Europe
Looking for Fashion's Spring
LA Finds Spring 05
Hollywood's Hottest Shoes
The Best RTW of Europe
Couture Chameleon
It's Open Season
Crystal Swim Suits and Lingerie
Lacroix to Stay

Featured Designers
Vivienne Westwood
Jenni Kayne
Brasil Anunciação
as four Interview
New West Coast Designers
Elsa Schiaparelli
Louis Verdad
Au Bar with Alber
Fashion Blues
Passing the Torch at Geoffery Beene
The Legend of Winston
LVMH Sells Lacroix Couture
Spring 2005
A Jeweled Passion
Sculpture to Wear
Coco Kliks Interview
Alber Reaches the Summit
Carol Christian Poell
Collette Dinnigan

Runway Report
Haute Couture - Spring '06
São Paulo Fashion Week
Paris Men's Wear - Winter '06
Paris - Spring '06
Milan - Spring '06
NY - Winter '06
LA - Spring'06
London - Spring '06
SF Fashion Week


The growing ‘trend’ for New York Fashion Week (as it has been in Paris, Milan, and London) is for a decided lack of one trend, one theme, or just one catch phrase with which to hitch a season. It’s increasingly about variety and options and Spring 2006 will undoubtedly be defined by a wide variety of looks and messages created by New York’s strong, independent designers who are intent on honing their skills, perfecting their signatures, and simply doing what it is they do best.

But that said, if I had to single out a few ‘trends’ we will probably be seeing , I’d have to say that the designers’ love affair with black (which started in earnest for fall 2005) has just begun to tip the iceberg, and though the shade is perfect for the winter season, it also lends itself beautifully to spring’s rich fabric mixes (‘think’ silk organza, linen, patent leather, lizard, tulle, ribbon, cotton ottoman, re-embroidered lace, feathers).This is also the most effective way to use this color I might add.

Black is also the perfect grown up hue with which to explore shape, silhouette, and couture like detail and construction. And then there’s the ‘little black dress’. I’m sure there will be many different versions of this perennial favorite being shown in September. Of course, where there’s black, there’s bound to be its polar opposite: white. Black and white forever! And after seeing the way Karl Lagerfeld so brilliantly mixed black with pink for his celebrated Chanel fall 2005 couture collection, I couldn’t help but feel that the main reason for black’s existence is to be used in combination with pink. I predict this will be another big color story going forward for spring.

Volume will continue to be explored and designers will play with volume and proportion (counterbalancing voluminous with skinny). I think Mod and Victoriana, two time periods that were given a lot of attention for fall 2005, will continue in importance, as well as the idea of ‘restrained’ luxury (there won’t be as much over the top, in your face excess and embellishment as we have been seeing).

It will continue to be all about individual, eccentric mixes, and arts and crafts touches a la Miuccia Prada, and global, ethnic themes will continue. But again, nothing too costumey or literal and always juxtaposed with something unexpected to keep it modern, fresh, realistic.

And talk about ‘schizophrenic’ and going to extremes….while feminine romantic lace will be ‘big’, look for innovative uses of streetwise denim . There were recent announcements that two plugged in and influential young design names (Zac Posen and As Four) will be working with this all American favorite fabric. Zac has collaborated with 7 For All Mankind on a denim collection exclusively for Neiman Marcus, and As Four will launch As Four Denim for spring which will replace the spring 2006 collection.


The Paris Shows for Summer 2006, scheduled to grace the runway this October, are likely to be highlighted by several houses repositioning for better traction. First and foremost on this list is Givenchy, with the debut Ready-to-Wear collection signed by Italian artistic director Riccardo Tisci due to be unveiled. His first haute couture collection brought much-needed accolades from the fashion press, a veritable shot in the arm for a label recovering from a bad stretch. His couture-like approach to design, clothes with a dark romantic vein running beneath the surface, might well define the current moment.

At Ungaro, Vincent Darré will be faced with the formidable task of designing a second collection that does not appear to be a remake of dusty archival sketches from the 60s. How he choses to make the venerable label relevant to today’s woman may well determine how long he keeps his job.

Lest it be forgotten that Ready-to-Wear is the for profit arm of fashion, expect to see a solid, chic and commercially viable collection from Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel. Last season’s gray, black and white might burst into color, but the underlying theme, that of understatement distilled into contemporary elegance will not change.

Another place to watch is Paco Rabanne, now remade under the watchful eye of American designer Patrick Robinson. Will he continue his dark, refined interpretation of Rabanne, or will he acquiesce to add a few sparkling effects in a nod to tradition? Stay tuned.


Los Angles is a melting pot, brewing with eclectic influences from the four corners of the world. Yet, regardless of its diverse mix of style and impressive line up of imaginative designers to boot, LA fashion has long had a bad rep as a conveyor belt of mediocrity. I beg to differ with this misconception. Without a doubt, the City of Angels holds the promise to breathe revitalizing oxygen into the lungs of American panache. Cutting-edge, youthful, innovative, and chic to the core, the clothes conceived in this town, are bursting with flair.

For the past 3 years Louis Verdad’s name has been synonymous with distinctive West Coast élan. Drawing his inspiration from his native Mexico, the exceptional talent creates a beautiful retro ensembles tinged with a 50s pizzazz. I predict for Spring 2006 Louis will continue to steer his namesake line along a similar path, while experimenting with new colors, fabrics, combinations, and silhouettes. In addition to the trademark strong shouldered Verdad woman, clad in a sharp pinstripe suit, also expect to see exaggerated volumes in the form of plumed skirts, flamenco arms, and wide flared slacks. Rigorously tailored jackets paired with silk chiffon or organza blouses are bound to remain a staple, but in stead of the smoldering, deep, rich palette of Autumn 2005, these basics are likely to reemerge in pretty pastels. Another trend to watch out for on the Verdad runway is luxurious Latin flavored embellishments incorporated into modern attire. Last time I spoke to Louis over brunch, he mentioned certain tunnel-vision types telling him to “leave the drama to Galliano.” My instinct tells me this might just be the season he will prove exactly why not.

Jenni Kayne is an international fashion icon in the making. Despite her young age the gifted designer’s creations have a timeless quality. Touched by a Victorian sensibility, her garments are underscored by classic elegance. Diverging stridently from the need to be trendy, Jenni’s spring look is destined to reveal lady-like opulence. Made from the finest fabrics a lá silk, linen, lace, chiffon, lightly woven cashmere, and various leathers, Ms. Kayne’s collection is expected to highlight feminine essence that defies the predictable marks of overt sexappeal. This spring Jenni Kayne’s easily recognizable sequins will surely reappear in metallic hues. Nonetheless, true to form, the monochromatic solemnity of the season past will be upstaged by the use of exuberant hues.

For autumn Petro Zillia experimented with the 70s theme, epitomized by Bianca Jagger and Lauren Hutton’s legendary Studio 54 days. In stark juxtaposition to the fiery womanliness of that strand, Noni Tochterman is guaranteed to bring back operatic color and theatrical silhouettes. Pinning corseted torsos against ballooning skirts, cast in sorbet colors, the brilliant designer shall reclaim her legacy of electrifying exuberance. Tochterman may also toy with patterns, peppering her pieces with colorful rainbows, carousels, and rocking horses.

In Autumn 2005 Coco Kliks used the circus and its stirring cast of entertainers as her muse. Before that, the all American lifestyle gave direction to her vision. This time around the diminutive girl with vast talent is assured to come up with a captivating point of reference. Perhaps the Luna Park or Gone with the Wind? Regardless of its origins, Coco’s spring will be girly, cheerful, and in vogue.

Michelle Mason is famous for her conservative tendencies. Aiming to reveal by concealing Ms. Mason will continue to delve into the endless possibilities of cut, construction and tailoring. Hence, do not expect the Mason femmes to start showing a lot of skin even as the mercury rises. Instead, form articulated along equestrian lines will define Mason’s brand of sexy.

Rachel Pally, whose jersey conceptions put a new spin on the ubiquitous fabric, will plot a course towards bold geometric designs. Clinging to the curves these pieces will inevitably demand renewed respect for the controversial material master Alaïa catapulted to the fashion front during the 80s.






Contact Us | Subscribe | Fashionlines Archives | “Jewels By Christine” | Search

© 1998-2006 All rights reserved.