Paris Menswear July 06

PARIS, July 1, 2006 - Dirk Schönberger entitled his show "Partisans of Love", but this collection was aimed at soldiers of the type that trade in their camouflage for evening suits, and do most of their maneuvering after hours, and in subdued lighting. Ruffles enigmatically streamed down the inside of a lapel, an extension of a collar dangled to waist level, and a series of evening shirts were overlaid with at least half of a wife beater. Suits were cut in an array of sizes, from a clean thin taper to an oversized tail that billowed like a cape. Of special interest were the two evening jackets of pale champagne silk, which though crushed and crumpled, shimmered like a wet canvas. For accessories, necklaces were fixed with a clump of keys.

Schönberger is a master at detail, and his summertime collection was highly polished and highly wearable. In program notes he wrote: "My love of American literature, the beat generation of William S. Burroughts and Jack Kerouac, Thomas Pynchon and their avant garde style depicting the roller coaster lifestyle of the youth of their era is the inspiration for this collection and still relevant for me today."

The show's setting in the grand stairway of the La Sorbonne was majestic.

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