by Timothy Hagy
PARIS, July 2, 2005 - Capturing abstract concepts and reflecting them in
clothing is notoriously difficult for the most seasoned designer, but Kris
Van Assche proved his ability at his second men’s show staged Saturday
afternoon in an old theater in Montmartre. Perhaps honing in on skills learnt
from his former boss, Hedi Slimane, Van Assche left no doubt that he could
subtly work an underlying theme.
Just as the afternoon had turned sultry, the first model, shirtless, gold
medallions falling from a neckless over his chest, set the tone. Whether in
pants blossoming with pleats, immaculately tailored jackets, a vest sprinkled
with sequins, a slashed cummerbund that wrapped the waist, or sleeves runched
and suspended, the look sizzled. Models strolled, stetsons by their side,
holding parasols - one even clutched a handful of miniature carnations. By
the time a lone accordion player sat down on the runway and took up an old
love song, the point was made.
In an age of so much global tension and dissent, what was so refreshing about
the Van Assche show was that it hearkened back to a simpler time now lost,
when old fashioned romance was the order of the day.
This was a first rate show from an up and coming young designer, a fact not
lost on the world’s most powerful editors seated front row.