The 26 year old duo behind the Proenza
Shouler label, Lazaro Hernandez and
Jack McCollough, have truly reached cult status in a short time and have
become the darlings of front row editors, socialites, and movie stars as
well. Known for their signature bras and corseted tops (which they continue
to show nonchalantly and often unexpectedly under well tailored jackets, over
dresses, paired with menswear inspired pants, sporty shorts, and Bermudas),
it is their ability to mix (day and evening, masculine and feminine, summer
and winter, vintage and modern, sportswear and couture), that is a constant
thread throughout their hip and cool collections. They just seem to know how
to strike that perfect balance more often than not.
Fall was undeniably a nod to mod, (with many in the audience noting more than
a passing resemblance to the work of Courreges and especially Rabanne with
all the black and white discs and chain mail). This played out in short
jumpers, mini capes, graphically patterned dresses accessorized with knee
high lace up boots, graphic houndstooths, natty pantsuits, accessorized
with
tall flat lace-up boots and high leather jockey hats. Their genius is in the
ability to put these elements all together, layer them, and perfectly
style
the whole thing so the effect is not costumey or contrived, but seemingly
easy and natural (the way a young woman with imagination and flair would do
it herself).
Defining looks included the short black and white houndstooth topper worn
over a mini lilac slip dress layered over a thin taupe sweater and chain mail
skirt; a brown herringbone short cape worn with a black and white disc skirt;
a brown wool pinstriped blazer paired with a mini jumper in chain mail over
a
gray long sleeved sweater; the black and white disc and chain mail tank
layered under a menswear inspired brown pinstripe vest and shown with a black
and white houndstooth skirt; a beautifully constructed fitted coat in brown
and beige herringbone with a flared skirt; and the group of empire waisted
long floaty evening gowns done in subtly colored graphic patterns.
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