is always more than just a touch of Paris in the work of Catherine Malandrino
(even when she references New York). And this time, she made no bones
about what inspired her: La Coupole, ("the
legendary area in Montparnasse where artists and poets hung out and shared
their stories over a glass of absinthe".) More specifically, she
singled out Colette, the French writer.
Catherine's program notes cited an "eclectic American/French style of
dressing" which relied on a touch of the equestrian, as well as the gender
bending mix of masculine and feminine. While it didn't all work, what really
stood out - as usual- were Catherine's strong knits- the sumptuous cashmeres,
mohair and baby Alpacas, done primarily in pale neutrals (plus lots of white
on white) which were often marked by exaggerated shapes and voluminous
proportions as if to emphasize the texture and drape.
Standouts included the cameo mohair cardigan worn with porcelain guipure tee
shirt and porcelain ripcord jodhpurs; a mohair long cardigan and nickel
jacquard shirtdress' and the porcelain oversized baby Alpaca tricot thrown
over a porcelain cotton guipure dress. Also looking good were the wool boucle
coat with astrakan collar worn with pearl knit sweater and velvet jacquard
jodhpur; the pearl double breasted quilted satin coat over porcelain hand
knit cashmere sweater and pearl ripcord jodphpur; and a shaved Persian lamb
oversized coat worn with nickel jacquard blouse and grey flannel pant.