The
offbeat, quirky and highly talented downtown quartet, Gabi, Adi, Ange,
and Kai- known collectively as As Four, have become cult figures with
quite a following, and have solidified their standing in the fashion
landscape of New York with their creative, avant-garde, innovative spiral
cuts, and highly artistic attitude. This season, they literally closed
Fashion Week, showing at 9:30 p.m. directly following Jennifer Lopez’s
Sweetface launch. Theirs is a singular vision and they stay true to that
vision season after season- focused and consistent, though not exactly
commercial, they do sell to Barney’s New York, and have reportedly
signed a deal to produce a line of limited edition accessories for Andy
Spade. (Many of their followers proudly carry their trademark spiral
shoulder bags).
For fall, As Four continued with the
spiraling, sculptural shapes that put them on the map, which were
done mainly in a chic and sophisticated neutral color palette of
camel, beige, taupe, brown, touched with blue, green, and winter
white. Lame and leather added surface interest, and furs upped
the luxury quotient. They used volume successfully in their outsized
swirling toga- like tops, capes, and fur coats- such as the fox
and mink coats with wide sleeves and curving hems, which were often paired
with their signature leather ‘jodhpurs’ and worn with
metallic heels or boots.
The group also has a wonderful way with streetwise,
athletic and sporty shapes- some of which resemble zip front
baseball jackets, or fur trimmed hooded parkas and anoraks (those are
often paired with skinny pants for a leaner look). Like other designers
this season, As Four is enchanted with bold chains, which showed
(up as a tongue-in-cheek homage to Chanel?) in the multiple (5)
blue alligator bags carried in cascading sizes, all boasting
iconic gold chains handles, which accessorized an ombre blue silk over
shirt with matching bow, worn with full camel full jodhpurs.
For
evening, it was all about sensuous, graceful, and fluid gowns in charmeuse
or pleated organza, many decorated with abstract, sculptural appendages
resembling flower corsages (again, another major trend)- theirs were
done in neutral colors to match the dress or in the contrasting vivid
colors that seem to have come straight from nature.
Just a note: On Tuesday, February 22nd, it was
announced that As Four is now As Three. Kai has left the design collective to
pursue "other business interests".
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