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This Season's Trends

Customize Your Style >
Chantal's Secret:>
Risks and Rewards of the Birkin Bag >
Let the Fur Fly >
Family Jewels >
LA Finds >
Ins and Outs of 2005 >
Young Parisian Chic>
Couture Snowbunny>
Haute Couture Fashion Week>
São Paulo Fashion Week >
In the Bag >
Hollywood's Hottest Shoes >
The Best RTW of Europe >
Looking for Fashion's Spring >
LA Finds Spring 05 >
Hollywood's Hottest Shoes >
The Best RTW of Europe >
Couture Chameleon >
It's Open Season >
Crystal Swim Suits and Lingerie >
Lacroix to Stay >

Featured Designers
Vivienne Westwood >
Jenni Kayne >
Brasil Anunciação >
as four Interview >
New West Coast Designers >
Elsa Schiaparelli >
Louis Verdad >
Au Bar with Alber >
Fashion Blues >
Passing the Torch at Geoffery Beene>
The Legend of Winston>
LVMH Sells Lacroix Couture >
Spring 2005
A Jeweled Passion >
Sculpture to Wear >
Coco Kliks Interview >
Alber Reaches the Summit >
Carol Christian Poell >
Collette Dinnigan >

Runway Report
Haute Couture - Autumn '05 >
São Paulo Fashion Week >
Paris Men's Wear - Spring '06 >
Paris - Fall '05 >
Milan - Fall '05 >
NY - Fall '05 >
LA - Fall '05 >
London - Fall '05 >
SF Fashion Week >

Jonathan Saunders has renounced his delightfully wispy chiffon creations in bright hues in order to create stiff architectural constructions in depressing browns, plums, grays and blacks. Casting geometric designs and psychedelic motifs on an 80s silhouette defined by wide angular shoulders, boxy cuts and masculine details, Mr. Saunders proves to have lost sight of the girly essence that made his earlier work a wild success.

SaundersÕ robotic wool pieces appear to be intended for the costume wardrobe of the sci-fi cult favorite Star-Trek rather than the streets. The designerÕs ubiquitous use of collarless necklines, narrow inset arms, semi-fitted bodices, straight skirts cut in single pieces, outsized patterns and sashes knotted at the waist rehash fashion clichŽs sans a fresh reinterpretation. In an attempt to replicate Geoffrey BeeneÕs mastery at translating menswear fabrics into feminine elegance Saunders squanders his own talent at manipulating animated shapes and vivid colors.



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