By Timothy Hagy
PARIS, July 7, 2005 - The Portuguese Embassy in the 16th Arrondissement was the setting for the Filipe Oliveira Baptista show on opening day of Paris couture. Beneath chandeliers dripping crystal, the young designer sent out a collection anchored in black and white, and seemingly inspired by the glory days of Issey Miyake and Yamamoto. Pleats streamed down in profusion, with one evening gown’s magnificent train even resembling a sea horse. Elsewhere draping was used for effect, though with varying success. Amid the bands of jet beads, pleated silk and silver trains, several exquisite pieces could be found. The only thing depleted was evidently the bar, since the promised cocktail reception never materialized.