The Establishment - RALPH RUCCI:
I must admit that while I loved Ralph Rucci's beautiful spring show, which - as always- upholds his view that "in my workroom as in my thoughts, there is little difference between couture and ready-to-wear", it was really later in the week, after reflecting on the season and taking the time to look at slides of his collection, that I began to thoroughly appreciate his amazing work, skills, creativity and ingenuity.

Though it is testament to Ralph's consistent vision that shapes, colors, and fabrics don't really change much- if at all- from one season (you know he will always show a group of silk gros de longres rainwear; use a lot of black, white, ecru and oyster; do amazing things with skins- furs, suede, and alligator; present a variety of lengths and proportions; make the most of a seemingly simple white shirt; and end with an breathtaking voluminous 'infanta'), I was struck by how the most simple pieces- the ones without too much fanfare- really made the most impact. And coincidentally, in the show's program, he was quoted as saying, "What really inspires me is trying to make something that is extraordinary but at the same time quiet and discreet". And in a season and at a time where it does seem to be all about 'bells and whistles', and not so subtle statements, this philosophy- while always valid and appropriate- seems especially welcome, and timely.

The items that really stood out this time were the opening group of silk gros de longres 'rainwear'. And while I initially thought Mr. Rucci made a mistake with the pagoda like hats (I felt they added an unwelcome stiffness to the runway), they looked better when I saw them again. And by the way, on that first day of shows, when Hurricane Frances made it impossible to use an umbrella, they would have been a welcome accessory. Then of course, there was that amazing oyster perforated sheared mink shirt worn with oyster lambskin jeans; the apple green cashmere and silk 'sweatshirt' (not any sweatshirt I know) and matching muffler, worn with crisp white lambskin jeans; the 'simple' knee length black cotton ottoman belted coat shown with a slice of apple green alligator skirt peeking out; a white satin-faced cotton tunic with shocking pink narrow pant; the narrow ¾ length geometric black and white double-faced wool and silk coat worn with narrow black pants; a full skirted white jersey and cotton pique sleeveless dress with green feathered 'slip' underneath; a black, white, apple green geometric jersey long sleeved narrow column; and the sleeveless a-line ombre chiffon gown with feathers.