The Establishment - RALPH LAUREN:
Cool, calm, and collected. This is the best way to sum up Ralph Lauren’s elegant, pulled together, unapologetically dressed up runway show which seemed to be intent on proving just how many countless ways there are to wear white. While not every piece that came out was white, white certainly stood out and was predominant in this collection that made use of a soft, cool palette- (in addition to white, there was the palest whisper soft pink, blue, and silver)- and not one print or pattern in sight- interesting since this seemed to have been the theme everywhere else. This was no costume party for Ralph this time, nor was there any ethnicity on display. It was all about going back to what it is that Ralph does best, ‘signature’ Lauren. His show, while bearing more than just an air of the 30’s, was in no way retro, old fashioned, or stuck in a time warp- it all looked perfectly in sync with today, and what a fitting way to wind up the week (he showed on the last day). At a time when the overriding look is all about an eclectic, perfectly mismatched look, rife with clashing colors and clashing patterns, Mr. Lauren went in the opposite direction and made a case for solid colors, matched suits, classic tailoring, and blazers.

While Ralph displayed all his trademark and signature tailoring, through impeccable jackets- often shrunken- pared with matching pants or skirts in a variety of shapes and length, (and he even showed his beloved jodhpurs, which he presented for evening in white satin), there were just as many soft sweaters (some in fluffy angora), knitted sweater coats, shawl collared cardigans, and abbreviated boleros, and they looked as good and certainly as important. Glazed herringbone linen, and satin added surface interest.

Best of all, it was like an instant replay of his favorite hits through the years. Knitted caps (often subtly encrusted with tiny pearls, shot with lurex or trimmed with sequins) adorned many models' heads, and jewelry that had the look of estate or heirloom keepsakes- strands of pearls and pearl earrings, diamante brooches, helped create a rich, well- bred look- nothing too fashion victim-y please. He wisely went a bit tongue in cheek with his ankle socks and high-heeled saddle shoes- but he also used elegant high- heeled open toed ankle sandals. And of course, I can’t leave out the evening gowns- some in satin, some in chiffon…all with beautiful backs, plunging fronts, floating hemlines.

Interestingly, the mood of the moment was perfectly captured and defined by Ralph himself, as he strode on to the runway to take his bow. Instead of the faded chambray shirt, well worn jean jacket, or antiqued brown leather bomber he normally dons for the celebratory occasion (which are a perfect accent for his unshaved famous face), he was flawlessly groomed and shaved and wearing a boardroom-ready classic pale gray suit, white shirt, and dark tie.