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New York Spring '05
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Marc Jacobs

The Establishment - MARC JACOBS:
One of the most playful, textural, tactile, and highly expressive shows of the season, it oozed personality and attitude and was all about the joyful and offhanded mix of color, print, and pattern. Focusing on proportion, Marc was obviously in love with the idea of more volume this season, as he often plumped up his full a-line skirts with petticoats to exaggerate the effect and showed his slouchy menswear inspired trousers one size too big so that they could easily fall to the hip, nonchalantly cuffing them to midcalf.offsetting the look through the use of a very high heeled but grounded ankle strap shoe (Mary Jane) that accessorized every outfit.

As always, his standout and signature items were the coats - this time he used embroidered organza to resemble oversized houndstooth for a group of coats and boxy jackets in arresting shades of blue, green, hot pink, purple, and yellow. The very first look out was the green and blue coat shown over a bias cotton jersey t-shirt and layered cotton poplin skirt, and the pea coat version, shown over mixmatched stripes- a striped cotton shirt and a pinstriped trouser- summed it all up.

Marc mixed large gingham checks, spots, stripes, and florals (seemingly altogether sometimes), made a case for shorts and sundresses, paraded his always wonderful and noteworthy sweet little cashmere and silk sweaters (many of which had demure pussycat bows decorating the front), made a case for the preppy (as in his cashmere rugby sweater), and ended with his full- skirted confetti like shredded organza dresses. Was it all just a little too young and maybe too exaggerated for anyone over a certain age? Perhaps, but it need not be worn exactly as it was presented. Just a note, Marc's shows are always notable for the people watching- it IS quite an event- and this time was no exception. In addition to the Olsen twins and Kate Hudson, there was a pregnant Liv Tyler, J. Lo, Donald Trump and Melania. Though I didn't see too much on the runway that I would imagine 'The Donald' would want his fiancé to wear (I could be wrong of course, but I think Mr. Trump is into a slightly sexier, more sophisticated look for his lady) I could imagine J.Lo (who was primly dressed in Marc Jacobs' fur shrug, silk blouse, and knee length skirt from the fall line) on stage- or in real life- wearing the slouchy pants and little sweaters.

Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs

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