The Young Guns - JEFFREY CHOW:
I loved Jeffrey Chow's collection- it was youthful couture- with a modern nod to vintage at its best- all about a refined simplicity that somehow seemed completely perfect for the moment. The Central St. Martin's grad, who designed for Perry Ellis and Emilio Pucci works with such a light hand that nothing looks stiff or stodgy and thanks to Christian Louboutin's shoes- whether metallic flat sandals or delicate high heeled ankle tied shoes in pale bone leather, the effect was young, flirty, elegantly and effortlessly feminine- never dowdy, staid or too ladylike.

Program notes emphasized the "ethnic inspired pieces" based on "African style" but the collection managed to transcend anything too literally costumey or ethnic. A high waist was achieved through tiny bolero jackets teamed with narrow knee length skirts or elongated Bermudas- which here, looked completely natural and unforced- and which served as the main proportion message, but there were also tuxedo style tailored menswear pants and vests, white eyelet pieces, and a subtle balloon shape (bubble hemmed) in the form of a black and white printed dress, which was a wink and a nod to Balenciaga. Teal, cerulean blue, coral red, white, ivory and black provided an interesting, and graphic color palette. The best -and most definitive - pieces were the very first look out- an abbreviated hand embroidered bolero (a big trend here) constructed of- get this- recycled cola cans and metal sequins, worn over an off white stripe voile pin tucked tuxedo shirt with paisley patterned cotton damask elongated narrow shorts; a cropped geranium cashmere knit cardigan with white contrast trim over an ivory raw silk high- waisted skirt with hand embroidered trim; an ivory raw silk a line cropped cape back jacket with white silk jersey tank and ivory raw silk trousers (which had a gold Swarovski crystal mesh belt); a rouge cashmere 'tribal' beaded cropped knit cardigan worn with a ruby and white vintage paisley damask dress; the black and white silk muslin balloon shaped corset gown, and the finale: a ruby and white vintage paisley damask Swarovski crystal embroidered 3/4 length evening coat worn over hyacinth crepe satin side gathered full skirt.