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New York Spring '05
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Bill Blass

Proving that you can't rest on your name, laurels, or label:

The Establishment - BILL BLASS:
And while Michael Vollbracht's 3rd collection as head of design for Bill Blass was an improvement over his last few shows (he focused on young, of the moment models instead of the older group of past stars like Pat Cleveland, who may STILL look great, but let's face it, enough is enough sometimes- AND he thankfully shortened the proceedings by editing down and quickening the pace) unfortunately, there still does not seem to be very much of Michael in the designs.

Mr. Vollbracht obviously has a well heeled clientele who look to him for their wardrobe solutions, and to that end he is providing them with enough wearable, conservative daywear, suits, dresses, coat ensembles, festive cocktail dresses, and dramatic gowns for all their occasions, but too often, the collection, which the designer said was inspired by Paris and his desire to make "pretty" clothes just seemed to be a robotic rehash of Bill's 'greatest hits'. Decades ago, Michael burst on the scene and made a name for himself with his exuberant and expressive hand painted silks (he started his own label in 1979 and won a Coty Award for design in 1980) which were translated into billowy kimonos and caftans. How perfect a reprise of that would have been this season, considering fashion's love affair with exotica, color, pattern, and volume. And at a time when New York designers are setting themselves apart by going back to their roots, and doing what they do best, perhaps Michael should start looking at his archives for inspiration. If he could somehow figure out a way to combine the impeccable tailoring and all American spirit that had been associated with Bill Blass, with his own artistic ability, maybe he would really have a hit on his hands.



Bill Blass
Bill Blass
Bill Blass

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